熟成昆布 mature kelp
先日、『昆布もワインと同じように熟成・・・という』記事に、あらパパさんは『産地や等級、年数だけのこだわりでは大して価値はない』という考えをお伝えしましたが、熟成された昆布と新物の昆布との違いや、用途による優劣についてはお伝えしませんでした
なので今回は、そのあたりをもう少し詳しくご紹介したいと思います
注意attention (heed)
The other day, in the article "Kombu is aged like wine", I mentioned that I thought that "kombu is not worth much if you only pay attention to its place of origin, grade, and age", but I did not tell you the difference between aged kombu and new kombu, or the superiority of kombu depending on its use.
So this time, I would like to introduce those points in a little more detail.
『熟成』を超簡単に説明すると
A super simple explanation of aging is
食材自体がもっている酵素で自身を分解する働きです
It is an enzyme in the food itself that breaks down the food itself.
ある意味、腐ることと背中合わせなのかもしれないけれど、食材を美味しくさせるための熟成は腐らせることとは全く違います
In a sense, it may be the opposite of rotting, but aging food to make it taste good is quite different from letting it go bad!
熟成には食材に適した『状態・温度・湿度・時間の管理』が必要です
Maturing requires "control of conditions, temperature, humidity, and time" appropriate for the ingredients.
例えば、肉や魚などの生鮮食品は、腐る原因の雑菌などをできるだけ処理（状態）し、氷庫や風乾にて管理（温度・湿度）、そして食材の持つ可能性を見極め（時間）ると、食材のもつ酵素で分解が進み、タンパク質がアミノ酸へ変わることで身質が柔らかになり美味しさと芳醇な香りが劇的に増すのです
For example, when perishable foods such as meat and fish are treated as much as possible for bacteria that cause spoilage (condition), and then kept in ice or air-dry storage (temperature and humidity), and the potential of the ingredients is determined (time), the enzymes in the ingredients break down the proteins into amino acids, making the meat softer and more delicious, with a mellow aroma. The taste and mellow aroma increase dramatically.
昆布もその『熟成』と同じ作用で美味しくさせることを目的とするならば、昆布という食材に適した『状態・温度・湿度・時間の管理』が必要になってきます
If the aim is to make kelp tasty with the same effect as ripening, it is necessary to control the conditions, temperature, humidity, and time that are appropriate for the kelp.
あらパパさんは〝美味しさという観点〟から昆布の品質についてを長く調べてきましたが、特に『熟成昆布』に関しては、できれば生産現場での製造過程中に行うことが一番有効であるものと確信しております
I have long studied the quality of kelp from the "taste point of view," and I am convinced that the most effective way to achieve this, especially with "aged kelp," is to do so during the production process, preferably at the production site.
『熟成』が行われている昆布製品
Kelp products that have been aged
最低限、以下の作業を行って製品化されている地域（生産者）の昆布製品が『熟成昆布』になります
At a minimum, "Mature Kelp" is a kelp product from a region (producer) that has been commercialized by performing the following operations
1）コンブを採取し天日または機械乾燥で本乾燥（状態）させる
2）本乾燥させた昆布を天然または人工的に程よく湿りを加えアンジョウ（状態）させる
3）アンジョウ期間は気温（温度と湿度）により最低1日間から５日間くらい（時間）必要
4）アンジョウ後は、程よく日入れを行う（状態）
5）日入れ後は昆布の水分を均一になるようアンジョウ（湿度・時間）させる
(1) Collect kelp and dry it under the sun or by machine.
(2) The dried kelp is then moistened naturally or artificially to create an "anjou" (state).
(3) The anjoing period takes at least 1 to 5 days (time) depending on the temperature (temperature and humidity).
(4) After anjoing, the kelp is sun-dipped (condition) moderately.
(5) After sun exposure, anjou (humidity and time) is required to equalize the moisture content of the kelp.
この作業をすることで熟成昆布の初年度が完成します
This process completes the first year of ripening kelp.
このような作業でつくられた昆布製品を数年間熟成させるわけですが、温度や湿度の管理によって熟成の進み度合いが違ってきます
簡単に言うと、温度や湿度が低ければ熟成には長い期間が必要で、高ければ短い期間でも熟成するということになります
The kelp products made in this process are allowed to mature for several years, and the degree of maturity depends on the control of temperature and humidity.
Simply put, if the temperature and humidity are low, a long period of time is needed for maturation, and if they are high, a short period of time is needed.
1）生鮮食品と同様、生のコンブは雑菌と水分が多いので、芯まで乾くよう本乾燥させることが重要
２）夏季の気温と程よい湿りは酵素の働きを促進させます
３）アンジョウ期間中に酵素による分解を進めます
４）程よく日入れを行い水分を均一にさせるアンジョウは、雑菌やカビの増殖を抑え香りを発たせる効果があります
５）熟成期間は結露（結合水から自由水）によるカビの発生を抑えるため急激な温度変化は禁物です
(1) As with fresh food, raw kelp has a lot of bacteria and moisture, so it is important to book-dry it so that the core is dry
(2) Summer temperatures and moderate humidity promote enzyme activity.
(3) Enzymatic decomposition is promoted during the anjou period.
(4) Anjou, which is a process of evenly distributing the moisture content over a moderate period of time, has the effect of suppressing the growth of bacteria and molds and releasing aroma.
(5) During the ripening period, condensation (free water from bound water) can cause the formation of mold, so rapid changes in temperature are not recommended.
『熟成昆布と新物昆布』の大きな違い
Major differences between matured kelp and new kelp
例に挙げた生鮮食品と同様に、柔らかさと美味しさと芳醇な香りです
Like the fresh food in the example, it is mellow, delicious and tender!
とは言え、生鮮食品の様に美味しさの劇的な変化は期待できませんが、確実に言えることは磯臭さが抜けるので香りが良くなります、そして、繊維が柔らかになりるので、その分、美味しさであるダシが出やすくなります
However, we cannot expect a dramatic change in taste like fresh food, but we can say with certainty that the smell of the sea is removed and the aroma improves, and the fibers become softer, which makes it easier to extract the broth that makes the food so delicious.
特に柔らかさは、見た目だけでも（水戻ししたもの）『熟成』されたものかどうかは判断できます
Especially the softness, you can tell if it has been 'aged' or not just by looking at it (rehydrated)!
左が昨年、右が５年前の日高昆布です
Left is Hidaka kelp from last year and right is Hidaka kelp from 5 years ago.
『熟成昆布』は、短時間煮込むだけでも簡単に分離するほど柔らかくなります
Aged Kelp" becomes so soft that it can be easily separated even after simmering for a short time.
柔らかいものほど熟成の進みを判断できるので、先ずは水戻しして固さを確認してみてください
The softer the fish is, the more mature it is, so try soaking it in water first to see how firm it is.
本物の『熟成昆布』であれば、水戻ししただけで食べられるほど柔らかです
If it is real "matured kelp", it is so soft that you can eat it just by putting it back in water!
固い場合は熟成してません
少し固いかなというくらいで熟成がまだ若い感じです
If it is hard, it has not matured.
If it is a little hard, it is still young.
The fact that different types of kelp have different fiber firmness to begin with is not the same thing as maturing.
あらパパさんがお勧めする『最上級で究極の熟成昆布』
I recommend "the finest and ultimate aged kelp".
ダシ用であれ、食べる用であれ、産地がどこであれ、繁茂状況の良い年に『はしり～旬』までに採取されたコンブを、カラッとした風の吹く晴れ日に本乾燥させ、夕方の湿り風に当てて程よく湿らせた昆布を数日間アンジョウし、数日後、程よい日入れを行い再度アンジョウ
乾燥度が均一になったら湿度管理された冷暗所にて１年間から３年間以内熟成させる
中でも柔らかでうま味の濃い葉元部分が『最上級で究極の熟成昆布』になります
Whether it is for soup stock or for eating, all regions have a good year when it is in season and flourishing.
Main drying under the sun
Damp it moderately by exposing it to a moist evening breeze.
Anjou for a few days, and then sun-dry.
Unjoint again.
Mature in a cool dark place for 1 to 3 years.
The part near the root is the "highest quality and ultimate matured kelp".
１）良品質のコンブは、得てして繁茂状況の良い年ほど生産される（数量が多いので当然と言えば当然）
２）良品質のコンブは、野菜や果物と同様『早生・はしり・旬・なごり』があり、『はしり～旬』のものほど美味しさのバランスは最良
３）乾燥は食材のみならず衣類の洗濯物も同様、高めの温度で湿度は低く微風であることが良く乾く条件です（高温多湿強風の機械乾燥は✖️）
４）酵素の働きは本乾燥状態では抑制されるので、雑菌やカビの増殖を抑えながらも酵素の働きを促進させるための湿りが重要です（人工的に水をかけ流すような湿り入れはうま味が流れる）
５）長期的に雑菌やカビなどの増殖を抑えるための管理（昆布に含まれている結合水を自由水に変化させない）を行いがなら、根元に近い部分（長ネギでいう白い部分）を熟成（３年以上はあまり変わらず風味は劣ってくる）
６）昆布製品の乾燥度は折りたたんでギリギリ折れないくらいの状態が長期熟成に向いている
７）少しの衝撃で割れるほど固い状態の製品は熟成が極端に遅い
(1) Good-quality kelp is usually produced in years when conditions are favorable for its growth.)
2）Good quality kelp, like vegetables and fruits, can be classified into "early, first, seasonal, and last".
(3) Drying is not only for foodstuffs, but also for clothes, and the conditions for good drying are high temperature, low humidity, and a light breeze (machine drying is high temperature, high humidity, and strong wind).
(4) Enzyme action is inhibited in this dry state, so it is important to moisten the food to promote enzyme action while inhibiting the growth of bacteria and mold (artificial moistening, such as pouring water over the food, will cause the umami flavor to flow).
(5) If the product is managed to suppress the growth of bacteria and mold over the long term (not to change the bound water in the kelp to free water), the part near the root (the white part in green onion) is allowed to mature (not much changes over 3 years and the flavor is inferior).
(6) The dryness of kelp products is suitable for long-term aging when it is folded and just barely unbreakable.
(7) Products that are so hard that they crack with the slightest shock are extremely slow in maturing.
熟成昆布にも用途の向き不向きがあります
Aged kelp is not suitable for all uses.
熟成が進むほど、煮物や佃煮などのじっくり煮込む系の調理法には耐えられる繊維がありません
The more it ages, the less fiber it has to withstand slow cooking methods such as stewing and tsukudani (food boiled down in soy sauce).
要は繊維が柔らかすぎるので、その点を考慮して調理しなければ分離したり溶けたりすることがあるので注意が必要（一昼夜煮込んだら溶けてスープが台無しだというラーメン屋のクレーム）
The bottom line is that the fibers are too soft, and if not cooked with this in mind, they can separate or dissolve (ramen shops claim that after simmering for a day and night, they dissolve and ruin the broth).
問題なのは、地域で生産されるその殆どの製品が『熟成昆布』であれば消費側も扱いやすいけれど、天候など乾燥方法の違いや生産者の考え方によって、結果的ではあるけれど『熟成昆布』とそうでない昆布が一緒くたに流通すると消費側は困惑する
『同じ昆布でもダシの出が違う』とか『同じ昆布でも固い』とか『昔と違って今の昆布が美味しくない』など言われるようになってきたのはその影響かもしれませんね
The problem is that if most of the products produced in a region were matured kelp, it would be easier for consumers to handle, but due to differences in weather, drying methods, and producers' ideas, matured and unmatured kelp are now distributed together, even if only as a result.
This may be the reason why people say, "Even the same kelp produces different soup stock," "Even the same kelp is hard," or "Unlike the old days, today's kelp is not as tasty.
高価な昆布に当たりは外れがあるなんて納得できない（消費者の声）
I'm not convinced that expensive kelp is hit or miss (consumer's voice).
見た目だけでなく、美味しさや用途に合わせた生産方法と分別が求められているのではないでしょうか
I think we need production methods and segregation that not only looks good, but also tastes good and is suitable for the intended use.
あらパパさんは新たな環境に適した昆布製品の生産と分別を行うためのノウハウを、理解ある生産者に対して指導できる知識と経験を持ち合わせています
I have the knowledge and experience to guide understanding producers in the production and sorting of kelp products suitable for the new environment, and to certify the products.
昆布のスペシャリストあらパパさんは、原点に戻り改めて昆布についてを学び直しています
昆布製品の6次産業化、製品のアイディアなど品質のこだわりや管理
あらパパさんの意識と共鳴した、共振した、似た目的だ！
そう思ってくださった生産者や販売者の方々に、あらパパさんの持っている情報や知識、そして時間をご投資させてください
一般消費者の方からのお問い合わせも大歓迎です
As a kelp specialist, I am going back to my roots and learning all about kelp again!
6th industrialization of kelp products, product ideas, and other quality concerns and management.
It resonated with my consciousness, resonated, similar objectives!
Please allow me to invest the information, knowledge and time I have in producers and sellers who think so!
Inquiries from consumers are also welcome!
連絡方法は次の何れかへお気軽に！
Feel free to contact me at any of the following!
I do not speak English, so please leave messages in Japanese.
◆Gmail arachinpapa@gmail.com
◆FBメッセンジャー https://www.facebook.com/arachin.papa/